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Door rubbers have changed profile from the original to the tube style. The original rubbers had a thicker area at the base of the A pillar desined to close down the gap and get rid of the noise the new tube style do not
Stoodards sell a felt seal which basically goes around the top and side of the door frame to be used in conjuntion with the tube style door seal. Only problem is it screws into place but I suspect it could be stuck on as well. My first RS had this seal, no wind noise at all, I took it off (the non std thing that bugs me) and yes I got wind noise.
Targa seals you've got 6 to worry about, wow I could write a book on those.
No one makes a front targa seal that fits...plain and simple. They have superceded to the later style at Porsche and there are no aftermarket copies of the early style.
You'll break your targa roof pins if you try to fit the available ones as they are way too thick and the roof is under enormous pressure if you can get it to close at all. Rears are fine. Side roof seals are also slightly different and what a job to match side windows and roof seals so (A) the window winds up and (b) so the rain doesn't come in. Its a nightmare to get right.
Many attempts, lots of rubber trimming in places where it can't be seen led to success but not before lots of swearing, tool throwing, seal destroying etc etc.
Good luck!!!!
Clyde Boyer
TYP 901 Register Inc.
President
Early S Register Member #294
Sven, have fun with the mirrors!!!
Patience (& possibly trimming the length of the threads) will be necessary.
Michael, "fun"? They look great but for a while there it was a good thing my young son was out of earshot ...
Yes, had to shorten the threads on the drivers (LHS) side but got away with it on the RHS for some reason.
And only lost 5 nuts and 8 washers lost to the innards of the doors in the process. Grrrr.
Thanks to all for the feedback on the rubbers. Mine are all new so I will now start the mobile wind tunnel experiments. It only gets bad at around 80 and after about 120 its all induction and exhaust roar anyway ... That may the solution right there
Havent you guys ever heard of using bluetack in the end of the socket to hold the nut in whislt you try to thread them on ?
sigpicPhil Lack
TYP901 Register Inc. # 002 (Founding President)
Early 911-S Registry # 690
R-Gruppe # 367
'72 911E 2.4 Coupe (SOLD)
'24 MB GLA35 AMG- daily
2012 BMW 1M Coupe 6-spd (SOLD)
1974 FIAT 124 Sport coupe
Yeah, I was having some real problems on Stoddards site with placing a large order. Thier shopping cart doesnt like too much stuff and spits you out if youre not careful. And its tedious filling in 5 more pages of stuff twice !
sigpicPhil Lack
TYP901 Register Inc. # 002 (Founding President)
Early 911-S Registry # 690
R-Gruppe # 367
'72 911E 2.4 Coupe (SOLD)
'24 MB GLA35 AMG- daily
2012 BMW 1M Coupe 6-spd (SOLD)
1974 FIAT 124 Sport coupe
Solved (sort of) one of lifes mysteries. After I fitted the Durants I drove car to a mate (the cove who took me to the place where I bought the car as it turns out) and hey presto, nothing more than a polite rustle ...
OK, a bit more than that but much quieter. Now if only I could see out of them ...
As well, fitted the refurbished Fuchs. Man dont they make the car look different. The previous owner was a bit of a track fiend so it has been lowered (has SC rear arms) so whilst the old thing is not quite dragging its guts, there's a bit of California there. Love it.
One issue though, the 85 litre tank is very low to the ground. In fact, the light steel plate that covers what looks like the outlets at the bottom rear of the tank has folded back. I think it must have already been sitting loose. Should I fit a bash plate of any sort? Tank not touching at all so maybe I'll leave it.
Went shopping today. Got a single outlet OE muffler that fits up to the SSI's I'm told. Stainless so more shiny stuff after I hit it with the polishing wheel. Anyone in the market for a dual outlet Bursch, PM me. Also, a bunch of filters, brake discs, pads etc. Got to fill the wet weekends somehow.
I got a hold of an original gear knob (attached to the stick). Is this a fiddly job to remove and replace?
Sven, re the shift knob, there is an internal crush sleeve you also need to get. Depends what you have on the old shift lever still ? An original knob as well ? It should pull off but depends if the PO maybe glued it one.
I believe the crush sleeves are readily available at Porsche Melb.
sigpicPhil Lack
TYP901 Register Inc. # 002 (Founding President)
Early 911-S Registry # 690
R-Gruppe # 367
'72 911E 2.4 Coupe (SOLD)
'24 MB GLA35 AMG- daily
2012 BMW 1M Coupe 6-spd (SOLD)
1974 FIAT 124 Sport coupe
Sven, re the shift knob, there is an internal crush sleeve you also need to get. Depends what you have on the old shift lever still ? An original knob as well ? It should pull off but depends if the PO maybe glued it one.
I believe the crush sleeves are readily available at Porsche Melb.
I tried to get a cursh sleeve a month or so agao and was told they are NLA!?
Cam Arnott
Looking for engine #6208151
1970 911E (Sold)
'71 911 S/T Replica 2.3 (Sold)
2 x Split Screen Kombis
TYP 901 Register # 78
Early S Registry # 1076
Cam, I searched Pelican and it shows they have them.
sigpicPhil Lack
TYP901 Register Inc. # 002 (Founding President)
Early 911-S Registry # 690
R-Gruppe # 367
'72 911E 2.4 Coupe (SOLD)
'24 MB GLA35 AMG- daily
2012 BMW 1M Coupe 6-spd (SOLD)
1974 FIAT 124 Sport coupe
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